Said Pur in Sunshine

Islamabad's winter is cold and gray, the air heavy with soot from people burning wood, coal, and trash to stay warm. Though we enjoy that Pakistan has seasons, we lament the brown haze that hangs heavy over the horizon and masks the mountains in the distance. The nights are long and dark and fill my hair with the... Continue Reading →

Karachi from the car window

I fly in and out of Karachi like a whirlwind. The Pakistani International Airways flight is full to bursting, and I try to stamp down my claustrophobia as I take my seat, thankfully in the aisle. A man seated behind me chants in Arabic for most of the flight and then, on the shaky and somewhat dramatic descent, nonchalantly chats... Continue Reading →

Finding a full cup in Lahore

We set off for Lahore at six in the morning. Just me and my patient driver, who shares that he is used to these early morning trips out of the Islamabad and into Pakistan. The country begins outside the new, somewhat impersonal capital city and, despite the early hour, I'm excited to explore. Already, the sun is peeking up... Continue Reading →

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